Comparative study of polycarboxylic acids for sustainable crosslinking of silk fabrics: Evaluating flame retardancy and physical performances

Abstract

For protein fibers, polycarboxylic acids represent a green strategy to enhance durability without using formaldehyde. This study evaluated the physical and flame retardant properties of silk fabrics treated with three formaldehyde-free crosslinkers: citric acid (CA), 1,2,3,4-butanetetracarboxylic acid (BTCA), and 2-phosphonobutane-1,2,4-tricarboxylic acid (PBTCA). Results showed that these acids bond with silk protein through esterification and amidation, improving washing durability. Particularly, PBTCA integrates phosphorus into silk, boosting flame retardancy. While BTCA led to the highest weight gain and improved wrinkle recovery, it negatively impacted the tensile strength and softness of silk fabrics. Conversely, PBTCA adeptly balanced enhanced wrinkle resistance with minimal effects on tensile strength and softness, and least affected the silk fabrics' whiteness, thus preserving its aesthetic appeal. All crosslinkers improved flame retardancy, but PBTCA displayed superior performance, achieving a limiting oxygen index of 32.4 % at an 80 g/L concentration. In vertical burning tests, PBTCA treated silk fabrics showed reductions in damage length and demonstrated self-extinguishing properties, qualifying them for a higher flame retardant grade. Phosphorus in PBTCA promotes char formation during combustion, essential for effective flame retardation and smoke reduction. This research highlights the exceptional potential of silk treated with PBTCA, showcasing its suitability for demanding applications.