Abstract
Abstract In this paper, an industrial case study comparing the use of different needles in the production of hems in towels is presented. The study aims to assess the sewability of the fabrics, quantified by needle penetration forces. The market offers an interesting range of options for the needle, regarding the geometry of the needle point, surface finishing, and sizes. However, in practice, the choice is difficult, namely due to the lack of quantitative data that may support the empirical evaluation made by the sewing technicians. The work aims to assess how the needle type and size relate to the resulting needle penetration forces. Three terry fabric structures, produced by a home textiles manufacturer, were tested using needles of different sizes, points, and coatings. Needle penetration forces were measured on a sewability tester prototype, previously designed and developed, based on an instrumented overedge sewing machine. It was found that needle penetration forces present very significant differences with small size increments, needle coating also influences forces significantly, and different needle points produce only slight differences, significant only on some of the fabrics that were tested.
Highlights
Introduction and objectivesSewing production efficiency is of paramount importance for apparel manufacturing
Two different needle points were tested: the RG point and the FFG point
A clear relation between peak 1 and peak 2 of needle penetration forces can be observed in these graphs, in material
Summary
Introduction and objectivesSewing production efficiency is of paramount importance for apparel manufacturing. This study, carried out in cooperation with a terry towel manufacturer, aimed at the selection of the most adequate needles to use in automatic hem seaming machines. The seam under study is the double-fold hem, produced by a 401 double chain stitch (Figure 1), using overedge sewing heads integrated in an automatic production line. This portion of the fabrics has normally a different structure than the main towel area, for decorative purposes. The selection of needles is normally based on experience, as was the case studied in this work, rather than on a direct, quantitative assessment of needle sewing performance
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