Coloration of polyester fiber with natural dye henna (Lawsonia inermis L.) without using mordant: a new approach towards a cleaner production

M A Rahman Bhuiyan,A Islam,M N Islam,A Ali,S M Fijul Kabir,M A Hannan

doi:10.1186/s40691-017-0121-1

M A Rahman Bhuiyan, A Islam + Show 4 more

Open Access

https://doi.org/10.1186/s40691-017-0121-1

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Abstract

The demand of natural colorants for the dyeing of textile fibers has been increasing gradually in recent years due to a growing global ecological awareness as well as a greater emphasis on a cleaner and greener production process. The eco-friendly dyeing of polyester fiber with natural dye henna is a novel approach that has extensively been studied in this article. To this end, the dyeing of polyester fiber with henna dye was conducted at different temperatures without using hazardous metallic mordants. Then the dyeing performance was investigated in terms of depth of shade measurement, analysis of colorimetric properties of color and assessment of color fastness properties of henna dyed polyester fabric samples. The amount of dye absorption by fiber and the resulting depth of shade were found to increase with increasing dyeing temperature. In case of colorfastness properties, all dyed substrates demonstrated excellent fastness ratings against washing, rubbing and perspiration with little to no deterioration of color. Moreover, the detailed morphological study revealed that surface structure of fiber remained unchanged after dyeing at an elevated temperature and pressure. So, the findings suggest that dyeing of polyester fiber with henna dye without any metallic mordants is a promising approach to get the desired dyeing performance alongside opening up an avenue for eco-friendly dyeing.

Highlights

Polyester is a general name given to the fibers usually made from polyethylene terephthalate having ester functional group in their main chain and formed through the polycondensation reaction of a glycol with a difunctional carboxylic acid (Edlund and Albertsson 2003)
Analysis of color strength The color strength or depth of shade of henna dyed fabric samples was investigated by K/S value which numerically represents the nature of the coloring material layer and an easy way to determine a color as a concentration due to the light absorbing and scattering (Bhuiyan et al 2016b)
The shortest bar diagram because of lower K/S value exhibited by the fabric samples dyed at 90 °C specifies lower absorption of dye while fiber dyed at 130 °C showed a longer bar due to a higher K/S value leads to a better absorption of dye (Fig. 2)

Summary

Introduction

Polyester is a general name given to the fibers usually made from polyethylene terephthalate having ester functional group in their main chain and formed through the polycondensation reaction of a glycol (or diol) with a difunctional carboxylic acid (or diacid) (Edlund and Albertsson 2003). The large molecules and inflexible structure of PET macromolecules lead to a compact and highly crystalline molecular arrangement of polyester fiber associated with a high melting point and glass transition temperature along with their insensitivity to moisture and various chemicals (Lewin 2007). The highly crystalline structure and a lack of polarity make polyester fiber hydrophobic in nature (El-Nagar et al 2006) that in turn resists any entry of water molecules into the polymer system and imparts a limited swelling in water. At a high temperature and pressure, the dyeing of polyester fiber is mainly carried out by synthetic colorants such as disperse dye (Aspland 1992; Fité 1995; Kim et al 2005) owing to its very small particle size and non-ionic nature (Gohl and Vilensky 1983). Any systematic investigation and application of henna dye on polyester fiber is rare despite its well-established use as a dye for textile fibers

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