Abstract
AbstractThis article seeks to reframe the stakes of current discourses at the intersection of Mexican cooking and modernist gastronomy. Through a decolonial approach to gender and visuality, (counter)visuality, this article demonstrates how and to what extent ‘modern’ and ‘traditional’ Mexican cookery co‐constitute and valorise one another, and how gendered expressions of culinary stewardship have become underscored by the persistent imaginary of the ‘cocinera tradicional’ [traditional female cook]. The article centres on the mutual dependency of two case studies: renowned Mexican chef Enrique Olvera and the popular YouTube channel host of ‘De mi rancho a tu cocina’, Doña Ángela.
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