Abstract

Abstract. An attempt has been made to understand the co-existence of wind seas and swells along the west coast of India during non-monsoon season. Wave data were collected in different years during non-monsoon season (off Goa during May 2005, off Ratnagiri during January–February 2008 and off Dwarka during December 2007–January 2008), which is fairly a calm weather season along these regions. Diurnal variation in wave parameters is noticeable along the central west coast of India (off Goa and Ratnagiri), which is due to the interaction of multidirectional waves (both wind seas and swells) of varying magnitudes and frequencies. Swells are predominantly mature (91%) and old (88%) during late pre-monsoon and post-monsoon seasons, respectively. Sea Swell Energy Ratio quantifies wind sea, swell and mixed seas prevailing in these regions during non-monsoon season. Intermodal distance (ID) between the energy peaks is moderately separated during non-monsoon season, whereas, during the shamal events, energy peaks are very close to each other (ID ∼ 0). However, pure wind seas (ID ∼ 1) are weakly present and found to co-exist with the swells almost all the time during non-monsoon season. Wind sea growth has been found while the swell propagates opposite to the direction of the wind and wind sea. Wind seas have minimum angular spreads in multimodal state. Under low winds, the interaction between wind sea and swell dominates and thereby the multimodal state reduces to unimodal state. The fetch available for the evolution of the wind sea spectrum has been estimated, and it is found to be less than 150 km. For the fetch limited condition, a non-dimensional empirical relation has been derived relating the significant wind sea height in terms of wind speed and peak wind sea period, and this relation fits for the west coast of India.

Highlights

  • Ocean wave spectra consist of wind seas generated by local winds and swells of distant storms

  • It has been observed that winds along the west coast of India are primarily dominated by sea breeze–land breeze systems during pre-monsoon season (Aparna et al, 2005)

  • Off Goa, during late pre-monsoon season, we find that wind seas grow when the wind and the wind sea are in the same direction

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Summary

Introduction

Ocean wave spectra consist of wind seas generated by local winds and swells of distant storms. Under changing winds (both magnitude and direction) wave systems can overlap in the frequency-direction domain, giving origin to a rather continuous spectrum in which the presence of two or more distinct systems is not clearly discernible Wave systems in these situations are referred to as mixed sea states and are difficult to detect and/or identify by automated procedures (Portilla et al, 2009). We have separated the wave directional spectrum into wind seas and swells to examine how the wind sea growth modifies in the presence of pre-existing swells during non-monsoon season for different years at three locations along the west coast of India. A nondimensional empirical relationship has been derived for the wind seas generated along the west coast of India during premonsoon and post-monsoon seasons

Area of study
Data and methodology
Diurnal variability
Relative importance between swells and wind seas
Wave directionality
Swell age
Fetch analysis
Conclusions
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