Abstract
Coastal imagery obtained from a coastal video monitoring station installed at Faro Beach, S. Portugal, was combined with topographic data from 40 surveys to generate a total of 456 timestack images. The timestack images were processed in an open-access, freely available graphical user interface (GUI) software, developed to extract and process time series of the cross-shore position of the swash extrema. The generated dataset of 2% wave run-up exceedence values R 2 was used to form empirical formulas, using as input typical hydrodynamic and coastal morphological parameters, generating a best-fit case RMS error of 0.39 m. The R 2 prediction capacity was improved when the shore-normal wind speed component and/or the tidal elevation η tide were included in the parameterizations, further reducing the RMS errors to 0.364 m. Introducing the tidal level appeared to allow a more accurate representation of the increased wave energy dissipation during low tides, while the negative trend between R 2 and the shore-normal wind speed component is probably related to the wind effect on wave breaking. The ratio of the infragravity-to-incident frequency energy contributions to the total swash spectra was in general lower than the ones reported in the literature E infra/E inci > 0.8, since low-frequency contributions at the steep, reflective Faro Beach become more significant mainly during storm conditions. An additional parameterization for the total run-up elevation was derived considering only 222 measurements for which η total,2 exceeded 2 m above MSL and the best-fit case resulted in RMS error of 0.41 m. The equation was applied to predict overwash along Faro Beach for four extreme storm scenarios and the predicted overwash beach sections, corresponded to a percentage of the total length ranging from 36% to 75%.
Highlights
Τhe accurate prediction of the wave run-up height R is vital for the effective design of coastal protection works (e.g., Briganti et al 2005) and beach nourishment projects (e.g., Dean 2001), as well as for the prediction of storm wave, surge, and tsunami effects (e.g., Korycansky and Lynett 2007) and the planning of efficient coastal management schemes (e.g., Kroon et al 2007; Munoz-Perez et al 2001; Xue 2001)
Several other formulations have been proposed in the literature, expressing R as a function of parameters like Ho, Ho + Hoξ, (HoLo)1/2, β(HoLo)1/2, and1/2 (e.g., Holman 1986; Douglass 1992; Synolakis 1987; Ruggiero et al 2004), while the use of coastal video monitoring systems allowed the acquisition of wave run-up measurements for longer periods at various sites (Holman and Stanley 2007; Velegrakis et al 2007; Vousdoukas et al 2009a)
The R2 prediction capacity improved when the shorenormal wind speed component Uw,x and/or the tidal elevation ηtide were included in the parameterizations
Summary
Τhe accurate prediction of the wave run-up height R is vital for the effective design of coastal protection works (e.g., Briganti et al 2005) and beach nourishment projects (e.g., Dean 2001), as well as for the prediction of storm wave, surge, and tsunami effects (e.g., Korycansky and Lynett 2007) and the planning of efficient coastal management schemes (e.g., Kroon et al 2007; Munoz-Perez et al 2001; Xue 2001). Several other formulations have been proposed in the literature, expressing R as a function of parameters like Ho, Ho + Hoξ, (HoLo)1/2, β(HoLo)1/2, and (βHo Lo)1/2 (e.g., Holman 1986; Douglass 1992; Synolakis 1987; Ruggiero et al 2004), while the use of coastal video monitoring systems allowed the acquisition of wave run-up measurements for longer periods at various sites (Holman and Stanley 2007; Velegrakis et al 2007; Vousdoukas et al 2009a). The correspondence between optical and in situ run-up has been well documented (Holland and Holman 1991; Holman and Guza 1984), and the approach is currently considered as “standard.” Stockdon et al (2006) combined information from ten different field sites and constitute the most extensive analysis of wave run-up upto-proposing the following relationship: R2 1⁄4 1:1
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