Abstract
Publisher Summary This chapter discusses the development of beach profile. Changes in beach profiles constitute an important aspect of the erosion and accretion of near-shore coastal zones. Researchers have modeled beach and shoreline changes caused by oceanographic forces, such as winds, waves, currents, and man-made structures. Numerical models developed to describe coastal sediment transport are a simplified version of the transport mechanisms involved. Swart developed the basic equations for such a simplified model and verified his theory with laboratory and field data. The chapter presents the numerical basis of Swart's theory. It develops a numerical time-dependent cross-shore sediment transport model that calculates beach profile development. It also discusses the parameters used in the numerical model calculations: initial profile, wave height, wave period, diameter of testing material, and length of time of the test. The chapter concludes with a discussion of the method for calculating the equilibrium beach profile.
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