Abstract

The rapid expansion of the dried cucumber market since the late 1980s has created a serious conservation issue worldwide. In fact, since 2002 sustainable use versus protection of cucumbers has been hotly debated at CITES meetings. In order to better understand the issue, this paper fi rst explores the historical development of sea cucumber foodways in Asia. Only a few spiky cucumbers, among the 40 commer- cially traded species, are currently highly appreciated by Chinese gourmets. The second part of the paper intro- duces case studies of communal resource management based on my fi eldwork on Rishiri Island, northernmost Japan, where the most expensive cucumbers with sharpest spikes in the world are harvested. In particular, I have focussed on: how the Rishiri cucumber fi shery began, how a quality branding was achieved, and how resources are managed. Competing with strong market pressures and poaching, the fi shermen of Rishiri Island have developed self-managed communal rules resulting from the exchange of ideas and practices with other societies.

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