Abstract
A frequency-domain Boussinesq model with good linear shoaling, improved linear dispersion characteristics and a dissipation formulation to account for wave breaking is extended to include the computation of the vertical structure of the horizontal velocity. The extended model is used to predict bottom velocities and resulting velocity variance and skewness in (partially) breaking irregular waves. The comparison of measured and computed velocity moments indicates that for moderately long waves the spectral Boussinesq model can be successfully used for sediment transport purposes. For shorter waves the crest velocity values of the higher waves are significantly underestimated, and as a result the velocity skewness as well.
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