Abstract

In the coastal ocean, interactions of waves and currents with large roughness elements, similar in size to wave orbital excursions, generate drag and dissipate energy. These boundary layer dynamics differ significantly from well-studied small-scale roughness. To address this problem, we derived spatially and phase-averaged momentum equations for combined wave–current flows over rough bottoms, including the canopy layer containing obstacles. These equations were decomposed into steady and oscillatory parts to investigate the effects of waves on currents, and currents on waves. We applied this framework to analyse large-eddy simulations of combined oscillatory and steady flows over hemisphere arrays (diameter$D$), in which current ($U_c$), wave velocity ($U_w$) and period ($T$) were varied. In the steady momentum budget, waves increase drag on the current, and this is balanced by the total stress at the canopy top. Dispersive stresses from oscillatory flow around obstacles are increasingly important as$U_w/U_c$increases. In the oscillatory momentum budget, acceleration in the canopy is balanced by pressure gradient, added-mass and form drag forces; stress gradients are small compared to other terms. Form drag is increasingly important as the Keulegan–Carpenter number$KC=U_wT/D$and$U_c/U_w$increase. Decomposing the drag term illustrates that a quadratic relationship predicts the observed dependences of steady and oscillatory drag on$U_c/U_w$and$KC$. For large roughness elements, bottom friction is well represented by a friction factor ($f_w$) defined using combined wave and current velocities in the canopy layer, which is proportional to drag coefficient and frontal area per unit plan area, and increases with$KC$and$U_c/U_w$.

Highlights

  • Many coastal systems have topography composed of large roughness elements that is markedly different from well-studied sand grain roughness

  • The relative importance of turbulent (Reynolds) and dispersive stresses varies depending on array geometry; turbulent stress dominates for dense canopies in which horizontal roughness-element dimensions are small compared with canopy height (Poggi, Katul & Albertson 2004), but dispersive stress is significant in sparse canopies and when horizontal roughness-element dimensions are similar to canopy height (Castro 2017)

  • The spatially and phase-averaged governing equations for combined steady and oscillatory flows presented in this paper provide a valuable framework for understanding the dynamics of combined wave–current flows over topography

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Summary

Introduction

Many coastal systems have topography composed of large roughness elements that is markedly different from well-studied sand grain roughness. In systems with large roughness elements and steady flow, spatially averaged momentum and energy budgets have become a valuable tool for understanding flow over urban geometries, terrestrial forests and aquatic vegetation (as reviewed by Belcher, Harman & Finnigan (2012) and Nepf (2012)). In this approach, the Navier–Stokes equations are first time averaged, averaged over fluid volumes thin in the vertical to resolve gradients but large in the horizontal to average over spatial variability. The relative importance of turbulent (Reynolds) and dispersive stresses varies depending on array geometry; turbulent stress dominates for dense canopies in which horizontal roughness-element dimensions are small compared with canopy height (Poggi, Katul & Albertson 2004), but dispersive stress is significant in sparse canopies and when horizontal roughness-element dimensions are similar to canopy height (Castro 2017)

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