Black Sea wind wave climate with a focus on coastal regions

Abstract

This study is dedicated to the wind waves parameters distribution on the Black Sea with a focus on coastal areas. Wind waves were simulated using the SWAN model forced by the NCEP CFSR and NCEP CFSv2 reanalyses for the period 1979–2016. An unstructured computational grid with resolution varying between 15 km and 200 m was applied. Modelling results were validated against in situ and remote sensing data. For the entire sea, distributions of total and seasonal maxima of wave parameters are analyzed. Maximal significant wave heights exceed 8.5 m and are found in the southwestern areas of the sea. Maximal wave lengths (over 160 m) and periods (over 10.5 s) are located in the eastern part of the sea. Total and seasonal time series extracted for 12 locations along the coasts of the Black Sea were studied. Maximal values of significant wave heights (over 6 m) correspond to areas along the northeastern and southwestern coasts of the Black Sea and the southern coast of the Crimean Peninsula. Maximal values of wave lengths and wave periods (over 140 m and 10 s) are located along the northeastern and southern coasts of the Black sea.