Abstract

Isoflavones are polyphenol compounds found mainly in legumes such as soybeans (Glycine max (L.) Merrill). These compounds can be found in different chemical forms; however, the beneficial effects for skin care have been mainly credited to their free forms. This manuscript claims to review the main effects of isoflavone aglycones on the skin, the different techniques for obtaining bioactive forms from soybeans, and the interest in incorporating them into topical systems. The benefits of dermatological application of isoflavones, as anti-aging action, estrogenic activity, wound healing properties, and antiphotocarcinogenic effects are highlighted. Moreover, the advantages and drawbacks of the extraction techniques of soybeans, methods for converting glucosides into aglycones, and purification procedures are described. Different strategies to incorporate these poorly soluble compounds in conventional or nanostructured delivery systems are also discussed. Illustrative examples especially for genistein-loaded liposomes, nanoemulsions, nanocapsules and cyclodextrin complexation are reported.

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