Abstract
Peptides found in skin can act by different mechanisms of action, being able to function as epidermal or nervous growth factors or even as neurotransmitters. Due to the vast functionality of these compounds, there is growing research on bioactive peptides aimed at investigating their uses in products developed for stimulating collagen and elastin synthesis and improving skin healing. Thus, a literature search on applications of the most common bioactive peptides used in cosmeceuticals was carried out. There is a lack of proper reviews concerning this topic in scientific literature. Nine peptides with specific actions on body and facial dysfunctions were described. It could be noted while searching scientific literature that studies aimed at investigating peptides which prevent aging of the skin are overrepresented. This makes searching for peptides designed for treating other skin dysfunctions more difficult. The use of biomimetic peptides in cosmetic formulations aimed at attenuating or preventing different types of skin dysfunctions is a topic where information is still lackluster. Even though research on these compounds is relatively common, there is still a need for more studies concerning their practical uses so their mechanisms of action can be fully elucidated, as they tend to be quite complex.
Highlights
Techniques aimed at extracting, isolating, characterizing, and synthetizing molecules, as well as techniques for the advanced study of molecular structures, were greatly improved after the second half of the last century
Vanistryl® is the commercial name of formulations containing acetyl tripeptide-30 citrulline and pentapetide-18, which are bioactive peptides used in wrinkle smoothing formulations that act in synergism modulating muscular tension and inhibiting matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) when applied to the skin
Bioactive peptides are becoming increasingly popular in the research and development of cosmetic formulations aimed at treating damaged and dysfunctional skin
Summary
Techniques aimed at extracting, isolating, characterizing, and synthetizing molecules, as well as techniques for the advanced study of molecular structures, were greatly improved after the second half of the last century. The multiple applications of these synthetic compounds, either biomimetic or bioactive, provide treatment options when used in formulations designed for topical applying, preventing, or attenuating the clinical aspects of skin damaged by dysfunctions: aging, hyperpigmentation, increase of body fat, and wrinkle development [10,12,13] These peptides can stimulate the synthesis of collagen and elastin [10,11,14], improve wound healing [15,16], increase fibroblast proliferation [10,11,14], and act as growth factors [17] or even as tensioning and tightening agents [10,11,14]. This review might contribute to future research by summarizing relevant information and making it readily available for professionals and researchers interested in the subject
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