Beyond the surface: a closer look at the stratigraphy of synthetic-coated fabrics in fashion collections and commercial samples through optical microscopy

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Synthetic-coated fabrics, often made of short-life expectancy coatings, namely plasticised poly(vinyl chloride) (p‑PVC) and thermoplastic polyurethane (TPU), are challenging to preserve. These materials are poorly studied within the conservation field, and there is a lack of research and solutions for their preservation. This study aimed to provide insight into the yet unknown variability of p-PVC and TPU-coated fabrics in fashion collections. The subtle differences in layer construction and morphology were investigated in a selected set of materials to unveil production methods and better understand delamination damages, namely peeling and flaking. Optical microscopy provided primary material assessment, complemented by ATR-FTIR for molecular identification. A wide variability of synthetic-coated fabrics was reported and connections between morphology, production methods and delamination damages were suggested. Optical microscopy proved to be a powerful tool in the study of the stratigraphy of coated fabrics, enhancing material knowledge for more informed conservation decisions.