Abstract
Aim: To evaluate the possible advantages of dermo-cosmetic products formulated with thermal spring water instead of deionized water. We studied the effect of a dermo-cosmetic product on skin barrier recovery after injury. In one test the product was formulated with de-ionized water and again using the identical product formulated with thermal spring water. Study Design/Methods: Stratum corneum of human skin explants was removed (and not removed for the control) with an ether/acetone mixture. A cosmetic product, either formulated with de-ionized or thermal spring water, was then topically applied on the explants. After a 5-day incubation period, epidermal expression of aquaporine-3, filaggrin, claudin-4 and claudin-6 was studied by using immunohistochemical techniques. Results: The formulation containing de-ionized water seemed to act on the epidermal expression of filaggrin and claudin-4. When thermal spring water was used to make the formulation, we noted that this expression was greatly enhanced. The formulation containing thermal spring water also acted to increase aquaporin-3 and claudin-6 expression. Conclusion: The use of thermal spring water in cosmetic formulations would appear to contribute to the cosmetic product’s efficacy. It was also interesting to note that this study revealed claudin-6 expression in human skin for the first time.
Highlights
The stratum corneum is the outermost skin layer that protects an organism against exsiccation and infection
When explants were treated by the cosmetic product formulated with de-ionized water (C) after the delipidation procedure, a slight effect on the stratum corneum reparation seemed to be obtained
When explants were treated by the cosmetic product formulated with the Uriage thermal spring water (D), a very good effect on the stratum corneum reparation was observed and the filaggrin labeling was equivalent to the one obtained in the control conditions
Summary
The stratum corneum is the outermost skin layer that protects an organism against exsiccation and infection (for a review, see [1]) When this epidermal layer is injured, the barrier function of the skin no longer functions. In 2003, Hara & Verkman showed that defects observed in mice deficient in the epidermal water/glycerol transporter aquaporin-3 (AQP3)—i.e. reduced stratum corneum (SC) hydration and skin elasticity, and impaired barrier recovery after SC removal— could be corrected by systemic or topical administration of glycerol [4]. This is a humectants currently used incosmetics. Concerning the tight junction-related proteins which are greatly implicated in skin hydration and epidermal barrier function, we can cite the work of Yahagi et al who showed in 2011 that lysophospholipids (currently used in cosmetics) could improve skin moisturization by increasing the keratinocyte expression of occluding and claudin-1 [6]
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