Abstract

The purpose of this study was to investigate the relationship between attention (using two different attention tasks) and self-reported climbing ability while considering potential confounding factors (sex, age, climbing experience, and cardiorespiratory fitness) in a group of experienced climbers. Accuracy of response (AC) and reaction time (RT) from two different attention tasks using the Vienna Test System, along with self-reported on-sight and red-point climbing ability, were assessed in 35 climbers. Linear regression revealed that climbers with the highest self-reported on-sight grade had better AC during the attention task. Linear regression models revealed, after controlling for potential confounders, that AC, measured using two attention tasks, was positively related to climbers’ highest self-reported on-sight climbing ability (β = 0.388; p = 0.031). No significant differences were found between AC and self-reported red-point climbing ability (β = 0.286; p = 0.064). No significant relationship was found between RT and climbing ability (β = −0.102 to 0.020; p = 0.064). In conclusion, higher-level rock climbers appear to have an enhanced attention, which is related to on-sight lead climbing style, and thus, it may be an important component of climbing performance. Coaches should consider incorporating techniques to train attention based on on-sight climbing style in climbers.

Highlights

  • Attention is a central feature of all perceptual and cognitive functioning (Chun et al, 2011), which allows for the selection and processing of information (Kahneman, 1973; Lavie, 2005)

  • Males had a higher on-sight and red-point climbing ability with a greater cardiorespiratory fitness (CRF) compared to females (p < 0.001 in all cases)

  • The results suggested that attention is significantly related to on-sight but not red-point climbing ability

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Summary

Introduction

Attention is a central feature of all perceptual and cognitive functioning (Chun et al, 2011), which allows for the selection and processing of information (Kahneman, 1973; Lavie, 2005). Attention is composed of three distinct networks which are responsible for controlling different attentional functions; they are orienting, alerting, and executive control (Posner, 2017). Alerting serves to produce and maintain optimal levels of arousal and performance, a necessary prerequisite for other attention functions (Peterson and Posner, 2012). Executive control is responsible for directing attention to relevant and useful information, away from irrelevant information, and for inhibiting extraneous stimuli (Roderer et al, 2012). These systems can be overloaded when individuals attempt to multitask and divide their attentional capacity between selecting information and deciding on action strategies. It is unsurprising that in sports, attention appears to be related to sport practice

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