Assimilation of peak period from video images in numerical wave models at a local scale

Abstract

This paper presents an innovative methodology to assimilate peak period into wave models at a local scale. The proposed methodology estimates the peak period by processing time stack images from a video monitoring system for assimilation into a wave energy balance spectral model. Assimilation of the wave peak period is performed by correcting the boundary conditions and replacing the directional spectra prescribed by SWAN when using a nesting scheme. This methodology represents a new procedure for assimilating wave peak periods in coastal areas with video system infrastructures. The wave modelling is performed using a three-mesh nesting scheme where the finer domain coincides with the local scale and the proposed assimilation methodology is applied. The results show that the model improves the estimation of the peak period across the whole domain. The shape of the spectrum obtained changes significantly in the inner domain, mainly for low frequencies.