Abstract
Anti-aging cosmetics are often sought after in order to slow down the aging process. Free radicals are one of the main causes of skin aging, and therefore antioxidants are used in anti-aging cosmetics. The aim of this study was to investigate which method is the most suitable for determining the antioxidant capacity of these products. Having samples extracted, the antioxidant capacity of the extracts obtained was determined by the following spectrophotometric methods: DPPH, Folin-Ciocalteu, FRAP, the ABTS method and the ferroion chelation method with ferrosine. The antioxidant capacity of the samples varied depending on the extract type and the method used. DPPH and ferroion chelation measurements with ferrosine were carried out in the part of the spectrum where plant pigments absorb. These pigments are often found in anti-aging products affecting these methods measurement results. The Folin-Ciocalteu method is suitable for researching the antioxidant capacity of hydrophilic extracts, but not lipophilic ones, where turbidity and the formation of a gelled ring occur. The FRAP method revealed similar results for all the samples and proved to be less sensitive than the others. The ABTS method for both types of extracts has proven to be the most suitable and sensitive method for determining the antioxidant capacity of anti-aging products.
Highlights
The term “successful ageing” comprises being health-focused and actively participating in all areas of life
The antioxidant capacity of the tested anti-aging creams varies depending on the type of extract and the method used for its determination
The DPPH method is applicable to both types of extracts, it is not the most suitable method for determining the antioxidant capacity in anti-aging creams
Summary
The term “successful ageing” comprises being health-focused and actively participating in all areas of life. Two types of active ingredients are used in anti-aging cosmetics: antioxidants and cell regulators Antioxidants such as vitamins, polyphenols and flavonoids reduce collagen breakdown by reducing free radicals. Vitamin C increases the amount of the messenger ribonucleic acid mRNA and stimulates the synthesis of I and III collagen types, thereby stimulating the cells to regenerate. Topical preparation manufacturers very often add ingredients that facilitate the penetration of the active ingredient through the stratum corneum by inducing the fluidization of the stratum corneum lipids These ingredients increase the bioavailability and effectiveness of the product [5]. Whether a cream has an antioxidant effect or is just a marketing trick can only be determined by examining the antioxidant capacity
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