Abstract
Kelingkan is a form of artistic embroidery that uses metal ribbon threads, which are coated in gold and silver, and embroidered onto the surface of soft fabric. The creation of kelingkan embroidery requires a high level of accuracy and utilises all the expertise that the embroiderer possesses. Kelingkan is known as a Malay artistic heritage that is still being produced on a small scale. However, the extent to which the art of kelingkan embroidery is being continued in Malaysia today, is under question. Therefore, this research will detail the history and development of kelingkan in Malaysia, map the latest locations of kelingkan embroidery practitioners in Malaysia and explain the factors that have influenced the development of kelingkan in Malaysia. Through qualitative research methods, a field study involving the observation of artifacts and interviews with embroiderers was conducted. The findings of this research has found that the history of kelingkan embroidery in Malaysia had developed since the emergence of trade systems in the Malay World. Only three states, namely Sarawak, Selangor and Kelantan still have embroiderers who are actively making kelingkan embroidery. The development of kelingkan embroidery in Malaysia all began in the palace and spread through familial relations from generation to generation, as well as kelingkan embroidery programmes (short and long term) or incubator programmes. As an implication, the findings of this study can be used as a source of knowledge for the younger generation to continue preserving kelingkan embroidery as a heritage in Malaysia. This research can also suggest proactive efforts to continue this artistic heritage by Malay women, so that it may be preserved for the future.
Highlights
Kelingkan is known as a Malay artistic heritage that is still being produced on a small scale
Malaysia has 14 states, which influences differences in the pronunciations and terms used; in Sarawak it is known as keringkam, in Terengganu it is called Teringkam, and in Selangor and Kelantan it is known as kelingkan (Ismail, 2017; Shawal, 1994; Jamal, 1992 & Rose Dahlina Rusli, 2016)
In 2017, gold and silver metal ribbons for use in kelingkan embroidery in Malaysia could only be obtained from Arab Street in Singapore and a single kelingkan shawl would be sold for a high price due to the difficulties in obtaining the tools needed
Summary
Kelingkan embroidery is a Malay artistic heritage that is still being produced on a small scale. It is one of the types of embroideries used to decorate fabric and it employs metal ribbon threads that are coated in gold. Kelingkan embroidery can be seen on Malay clothing such as the kebaya, baju kurung, head coverings like the selendang and selayah, and it is seen on bed coverings. All these treasures are still being exhibited by museums and the National Handicraft Development Corporation. Among the dilemmas encountered are, does the younger generation know about the existence of kelingkan embroidery in line with Malaysia’s progress?
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