Approaches to quantifying long-term continental shelf sediment transport with an example from the Northern California STRESS mid-shelf site

Abstract

Modeling shelf sediment transport rates and bed reworking depths is problematic when the wave and current forcing conditions are not precisely known, as is usually the case when long-term sedimentation patterns are of interest. Two approaches to modeling sediment transport under such circumstances are considered. The first relies on measured or simulated time series of flow conditions to drive model calculations. The second approach uses as model input probability distribution functions of bottom boundary layer flow conditions developed from wave and current measurements. Sediment transport rates, frequency of bed resuspension by waves and currents, and bed reworking calculated using the two methods are compared at the mid-shelf STRESS (Sediment TRansport on Shelves and Slopes) site on the northern California continental shelf. Current, wave and resuspension measurements at the site are used to generate model inputs and test model results. An 11-year record of bottom wave orbital velocity, calculated from surface wave spectra measured by the National Data Buoy Center (NDBC) Buoy 46013 and verified against bottom tripod measurements, is used to characterize the frequency and duration of wave-driven transport events and to estimate the joint probability distribution of wave orbital velocity and period. A 109-day record of hourly current measurements 10 m above bottom is used to estimate the probability distribution of bottom boundary layer current velocity at this site and to develop an auto-regressive model to simulate current velocities for times when direct measurements of currents are not available. Frequency of transport, the maximum volume of suspended sediment, and average flux calculated using measured wave and simulated current time series agree well with values calculated using measured time series. A probabilistic approach is more amenable to calculations over time scales longer than existing wave records, but it tends to underestimate net transport because it does not capture the episodic nature of transport events. Both methods enable estimates to be made of the uncertainty in transport quantities that arise from an incomplete knowledge of the specific timing of wave and current conditions. © 1997 Elsevier Science Ltd