Application of the high-resolution wave model for forecasting 1D sediment transport and beach inundation as a component of a short-term storm warning system

Abstract

The main purpose of the research was to develop appropriate tools for forecasting the effects of storms. The use of the high-resolution SWAN wave model powered by AROME wind fields to couple it with the SWANOneSed sediment transport model and a model using the Ruggiero formula, predicting the extent of the flooded shore, allowed the development of reliable tools for forecasting the effects of storms. Validation using qualitative analysis showed that the results obtained from the coupled SWANOneSed model are characterized by high consistency in intensification and direction of changes. The model using the Ruggiero formula obtained a high value of the correlation coefficient, i.e. 0.970 and 0.992 for the Satbałtyk-Xbeach model data, based on the Hunt&Mase formula, and the high-resolution Pleiades Neo satellite data, respectively. By combining models from the SWAN family, i.e. the SWAN and SWANOneSed wave model and a model using the Ruggiero formula, it was possible to obtain reliable and compatible tools enabling an uninterrupted and synchronized operational process of generating forecasts of storm effects.