Applicability of Swash Model for Wave Field Data Reproduction in Namhangjin Coastal Area

Abstract

Recently, the SWASH model has been used for predicting the transformation of surface waves in coastal and harbor areas. The purpose of this study is to validate the applicability of the SWASH model and verify the model results through the reproduction of wave field data using a coupled SWAN–SWASH model in the Namhangjin coastal area. Wave field measurements were performed at multiple locations in the Namhangjin coastal area. Statistical analysis of the waves measured using the AWAC(Acoustic Waves And Currents profiler) was carried out at a depth of D.L. (-)30 m to determine the incident significant wave height (Hs), peak period (Tp), and peak wave direction (θp) for the incident wave boundary conditions of the numerical simulations performed in the study. The wave data observed at three points located at depths of D.L. (-)13.7, 10.5, and 6.6 m were used for the verification of the model results. The results calculated using both the SWAN model and coupled SWAN–SWASH model were tested by comparing them with the field-measured data. The field data and numerical simulation results were compared in terms of the spatial distribution of Hs and Tp and the wave energy spectra at three stations. The SWASH model could successfully capture the average shape of the wave spectra. In particular, the wave energy obtained using Hs and Tp as the input conditions could be used to accurately calculate the output wave energy distribution over the frequency domain. The study results demonstrate that the SWASH model can be effectively used to reproduce irregular waves and thus may be a useful tool in coastal engineering applications.