Apple of Sodom (<em>Calatropis procera</em>) Callus Extract, a Novel Skincare Active and Its Biological Activity in Skin Models When Combined with Dead Sea Water

Abstract

Background: Calotropis procera (C. procera), is an authentic plant naturally grown in the flora of Dead Sea region. Despite its toxicity, C. procera presents healing properties. However, it has not been implemented yet in cosmetics as an active ingredient. Objective: The biological effects of C. procera callus extract on skin were elucidated solely and in combination with Dead Sea water (DSW). Methods: The capability of C. procera extract to protect against skin inflammation and irritation was tested on ex vivo human skin organ culture by LPS and SDS addition respectively. Viability and cytokine secretion were evaluated. The combination of C. procera extract with Dead Sea water was tested on full thickness skin equivalents. Gene expression and relevant biochemical markers for glycolysis, hypoxia and extracellular matrix balance were tested. Results: C. procera extract exhibits a protective biological activity against skin irritation and inflammation at the biochemical level. Furthermore, a combination of C. procera extract and DSW demonstrates a potential contribution for skin wellbeing via enhance energy production, resistance to hypoxia and extracellular matrix balance. Conclusions: Topical application of C. procera callus extract might support skin balance and wellbeing at the molecular level. Hence, it is recommended for new cosmetic formulae as standalone or in combination with Dead Sea water, in the effort to achieve anti-aging bio-activity that is working beyond skin aging symptoms, especially via skin calming effects and skin energy enhancement.