Ankara’daki İran Restoranları: Kültürel Kimlik Üzerine Etnografik Bir Araştırma (Iranian Restaurants in Ankara: An Ethnographical Research on Cultural Identity)

Abstract

Turkish Abstract: Etnik restoranlar, insan hareketliliginin boylesine arttigi bir donemde, hem kulturel korumanin kurumsallasmis bicimleridir hem de tuketim uzerinden farkli kulturlerin bulusma mekânidir. Bir gocmen ulkesi olan Turkiye’de de uluslararasi gocmenlerin actiklari etnik restoran sayisinda artis vardir. Bu makalede, yemek, kulturel kimlik ve gocmen restoranlari arasindaki dinamik iliski Ankara’daki Iran restoranlari orneginde ortaya konmaya calisiliyor. Bunu yaparken restoranlar sahipleri, araci yapilar ve musterilerle yapilan gorusmelerin kayitlarindan ve katilimli gozlem notlarindan yararlaniliyor. Calismada, mekânsal bir kumelenme gostererek tuketimin yeni bir cografyasini yaratan Iran restoranlarinin sadece etnisite uzerinden degil, sinif ve toplumsal cinsiyet uzerinden de kendi kurumsal yapisini gelistirdigi ve kulturel koruma fonksiyonunu bu yapilar uzerinden insa ettigi gorulmustur. English Abstract: Ethnic restaurants are not only institutionalized forms of cultural protection, but also melting points of different cultures through consumption in a period of such an increasing human mobility. There is also an increase in the number of ethnic restaurants opened by transnational immigrants in Turkey, an immigrantreceiving country. In this article, the dynamic relation between food, cultural identity and immigrant restaurants is tried to be revealed based on the example of Iranian restaurants in Ankara. While doing this, records of the interviews made with restaurant owners, intermediating entities and customers and participant observation notes were utilized. In this field research, it was observed that the Iranian restaurants, which have created a new geography of consumption by showing a spatial aggregation, have developed their own corporate structures not only based on ethnicity, but also on the class and gender and that they have built their cultural preservation function based on these structures.