Abstract
Lipstick is classified as decorative cosmetics, generally, with many colours’ variance attracting the consumers. However, red is the favourites amongst them. Protecting the consumer’s health, lipstick should meet certain requirements which is registered by (National Agency of Drug and Food Control (Badan Pengawas Obat dan Makanan/BPOM). Regulation of BPOM No.HK.03.1.23.08.11.07517 of 2011 regulates prohibited red colorants such Rhodamine B. While at regulation of BPOM No.HK.03.1.23.07.11.6662 regulates a maximum level of heavy metals concentration. This study was conducted to determine the presence of Rhodamine B, Red Allure, and Amaranth as well as Pb and Cd in illegal brands of red lipstick at PXXX Market in Surabaya. The red colorants were identified with Thin Layer Chromatography (TLC)-densitometry while the metals, lead (Pb) and cadmium (Cd), were analysed with Inductively Coupled Plasma Spectrometer (ICPS). A validation method both for TLC-densitometry and ICPS were performed previously prior the analysis; meet the requirements for linearity, accuracy, precision as well as limit of detection (LOD) and limit of quantification (LOQ). Six illegal brands of lipsticks were identified at PXXX Market in Surabaya. One of them was qualitatively detected contains only Rhodamine B, 2 samples contain both Rhodamine B and Red Allure while the rest of 3 brands were contain Red Allure. None of them contain Amaranth. Hence, a quantitative analysis of Red Allure was further conducted. The Red Allure content in the identified red lipsticks was 34.19-187.88 mg/kg, below the maximum allowable content. In case of heavy metals, Pb and Cd. None of the lipstick’s samples contain both Pb and Cd.
Highlights
Lipstick is a decorative cosmetic contains oils, waxes, fats, aceto-glycerides, surfactants, antioxidants, and colorants
Referring BPOM No HK.03.1.23.08.11.07331 of 2011 about analysis methods of cosmetics, six different mobile phase systems are recommended
Mobile Phase Optimization for Thin Layer Chromatography (TLC) Analysis Six different combinations of mobile phase were studied, as it is referred to HK.03.1.23.08.11.07331 of 2011 by BPOM, for colorants identification in cosmetics by TLC
Summary
Lipstick is a decorative cosmetic contains oils, waxes, fats, aceto-glycerides, surfactants, antioxidants, and colorants. The LOD for Pb and Cd by LIBS were 0.028 mg/kg and 0.016 mg/kg, respectively [2] Though, the content both of Pb and Cd is low; both heavy metals is not allowed in presence in exported cosmetics product into Germany. In case of lipstick and eye pencil contained Cu. Cosmetics products from Sudan have higher heavy metals concentration than those produced by both of Jordan and Syria [10]. Study for identifying the safety product of unregistered products of lipstick especially focus on red colorants and Pb and Cd content in Surabaya need to be conducted. Thin Layer Chromatography (TLC) coupled with densitometry method and Inductively Coupled Plasma Spectrometer (ICPS), respectively, applied for both identification and quantification of the red colorants of the lipstick and for Pb and Cd content for fulfilling the required accuracy by BPOM,. The validation methods of ICPS covering selectivity, linearity, accuracy, prediction, limit of detection (LOD) and limit of quantification (LOQ) parameters were previously conducted prior the quantitative analysis of heavy metals
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