Analysis of Formative Aspects in Gisaeng (Korean Geisha) Makeup Culture during the Joseon and Edo Periods

Abstract

This study comparatively analyzed the formative aspects of makeup techniques in the cosmetology culture of gisaeng (Korean geisha), who led the cultural trends during the Joseon and Edo periods. In terms of the scope of this study, it was assumed that the grounds for the history of cosmetology culture were formed during the Joseon and Edo eras. Specifically, the Joseon period was limited to from the time of the first king, Taejo (1392), to the 25th king, Cheoljong (1863), while the period from the 1st shogun, Tokugawa Ieyasu, to the 15th shogun, Tokugawa Yoshinobu, was covered for the Edo era. The analysis of makeup techniques during both periods based on a general theory of formality found the following: In terms of shape, thin crescent eyebrows and lips and small and round lips were found in Joseon while almost straight-lined arched eyebrows and small and unnaturally rounded lips were found in the Edo period. In terms of color, rouge and red lips were found in both countries. Specifically, a style known as sasa-iro beni (bamboo grass red) was applied to the lower lip in green based on a metallic green beetle. In addition, a unique makeup technique called ‘heukchi’ was used to create the color black. In both countries, the eyebrows were expressed in black and a whitened face was created. In terms of texture, a natural and fuzzy texture was expressed with powder in Joseon while the face was painted with white makeup, creating a dry texture, during the Edo period.