An ocean wind-wave climatology for the Southern Brazilian Shelf. Part II: Variability in space and time

Abstract

Previously validated model results were used to characterize the wave climate over the Southern Brazilian Shelf (SBS). The low mean significant wave height over the western South Atlantic shelves was shown together with examples of cyclone-induced extreme wave fields and other typical wave conditions. The mean offshore spectra showed a bimodal shape with a predominance of S/SSW and ENE/E waves with distinctive interannual rising periods in wave energy density. Along-shelf wave energy gradients were seen near the coast with higher energy located off capes and coastal projections and energy minima between them. A considerable drop in wave energy suggests the 40 m depth as the mean wave base and consequently the lower limit of the SBS shoreface. The upper shoreface mean wave energy density varied abruptly along the shelf in response to differences in bottom declivities. The large and shallow shoreface was responsible for an intense refraction of the waves and hence very small angles of attack. Additionally, it was shown the sheltering effect caused by capes and coastal projections and a remarkable north/south energy asymmetry between them, caused by a windowing on the wave propagation to the shore. Altogether, it was possible to state that bottom friction plays a major role in wave differentiation along the SBS shoreface, thus suggesting that shelf morphology might indeed be more important to generate wave variability than the offshore wave variation itself.