An Investigation of Makeup Ingredients and their Effects on Acne Cosmetica with Dermatologic Practice Recommendations

Hira Ghani,Stefani Cubelli,Kevin Liu,Raphia Rahman

doi:10.25251/skin.5.5.4

Abstract

Acne cosmetica, a type of acne linked to cosmetic usage, is characterized by persistent mild breakouts and occurs due to the interplay between sebum and trapped comedogenic products in makeup products. Regular cosmetic usage may cause acne since it has been determined that a reduction in makeup application can help reduce its severity. There is a pressing need for dermatologists and patients to select appropriate, well-tolerated, and non-comedogenic makeup products containing active ingredients that help to eradicate acne. This literature review will thus examine common ingredients found in makeup products that act as comedogenic irritants, acnefriendly ingredients, and explore dermatologic recommendations to address beauty product use in acne-prone patients. Both PubMed and Google Scholar were searched using keywords skincare and makeup ingredients combined with acne cosmetica in adolescents and dermatology. This literature review has indicated that patients suffering from acne should be recommended to avoid using comedogenic products and switch to acne-friendly ingredients that are safe for skin. Dermatologists should recommend the use of prescription topical medications containing ingredients such as retinol and salicylic acid to yield visible and noticeable results. These findings help to strengthen the dermatologists' understanding of common active ingredients found in beauty products and helps guide recommendations for patients suffering from acne

Highlights

Acne vulgaris is the most common skin disease affecting late adolescents across the globe
Given the rise of acne diagnosis in teenagers and across multiple nationalities and races, it is important for clinicians to understand the basic pathogenesis, and most importantly, investigate new exacerbating factors that may not have been previously associated with acne epidemiology
The complex interplay between sebum and trapped comedogenic products in makeup cause the eruption of acne cosmetica, which is characterized by persistent mild breakouts, comprising comedones along the forehead, cheeks, neck and scalp.[9]

Summary

INTRODUCTION

Acne vulgaris is the most common skin disease affecting late adolescents across the globe. Acne is a chronic inflammatory skin disorder of the sebaceous glands of the hair follicle. It is caused by a cascade of different factors, subsequently leading to the formation of a microcomedone, and eventually acne. A high glycemic index of diet may participate in the pathogenesis of both inflammatory and non-inflammatory types of acne vulgaris. Diets based on products with a high glycemic index leads to hyperinsulinemia, stimulating the secretion of androgens and causing an increased production of sebum by elevating the level of insulin-like growth factor 1 (IGF1).[7] IGF-1 influences comedogenic factors such as androgens, growth hormone and glucocorticoids.[7] These comedogenic factors increase the endogenous levels of IGF-1 in blood, which further increases levels of androgens, thereby creating a vicious cycle of excessive production of sebum.[7]. This literature review will investigate whether makeup is recommended for use on acneprone skin, review acne-friendly ingredients found in products, and propose recommendations on how dermatologists should counsel acne-prone patients in regards to product choices for makeup application

DISCUSSION

Findings

A Summary of Dermatologic Recommendations for Acne Cosmetica

CONCLUSION