An imagined culinary community: stories of morality and masculinity in “Sweden – the new culinary nation”

Abstract

ABSTRACTThis study aims to explore the promotion of Swedish culinary excellence. While previous studies have mainly focused on how cuisine is used to construct the nation, this paper has turned the analysis around. Thus, it critically examines how pre-established assumptions about the nation serve as a resource to promote food. The data are based on texts and images from organisations promoting Sweden and Swedish food as well as on field notes from three observations of food fairs and one observation of the chef competition Bocuse d’Or Europe 2014. First, the paper argues that in their promotion of Swedish culinary excellence the food and hospitality industry actors draw on notions of morality, namely inclusivity for all and assumed ethical responsibilities for the environment and non-human animals. Second, the paper contends that the spearheads of culinary excellence were mostly a homogeneous group of urban, male chefs and the top restaurants. Male celebrity chefs were represented not only as “progressive” and “laid-back” guys but also as competitive and success-driven entrepreneurs.