Abstract

Based on potential flow theory, governing equations are developed for surface gravity waves affected by wind, dissipation, and a linear shear flow (LSF). The LSF is composed of a uniform flow and a shear flow with constant vorticity. Using the multiple-scale analysis method, a two-dimensional nonlinear Schrödinger equation (NLSE) describing the evolution of freak waves in water of finite depth is derived by solving the governing equations. The modulational instability (MI) of the NLSE is analyzed, and it is shown that uniform up-flow and positive vorticity require a lower angular frequency to sustain the MI than uniform down-flow and negative vorticity. Moreover, the low-frequency section requires stronger wind velocity to sustain the MI than the high-frequency section. In other words, young waves are more sensitive to the MI than old waves. In addition, the free surface elevation of freak waves as a function of time is examined for different uniform flows, vorticities, and wind forcing, and the results are compared with a measured freak-wave time series from the North Sea. It is found that the theory agrees with the observations. Furthermore, the LSF affects the height and steepness of freak waves, while wind forcing affects their symmetry. Hence, the MI, wave–current interactions, and wind–wave interactions may be responsible for generating freak waves in realistic ocean scenarios.

Highlights

  • After the New Year wave, 1 which had a trough-to-crest height of 25.6 m, occurred on January 1, 1995, at the Draupner oil platform in the North Sea, the scientific community recognized that freak waves could exist in an unexpected form on the sea surface.2 The systematic study of freak waves began with the observation of the New Year wave.3 Freak waves are a special kind of surface wave with a relatively large height and short lifetime and are defined as having a maximum wave height that exceeds twice the significant wave height.3,4 Freak waves can greatly endanger ships and platforms at sea

  • The modulational instability (MI) of the nonlinear Schrödinger equation (NLSE) is analyzed, and it is shown that uniform up-flow and positive vorticity require a lower angular frequency to sustain the MI than uniform down-flow and negative vorticity

  • Using the multiple-scale analysis method, a two-dimensional NLSE describing the evolution of freak waves in water of finite depth under the action of linear shear flow (LSF), wind, and dissipation was derived by solving these governing equations

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Summary

INTRODUCTION

After the New Year wave, 1 which had a trough-to-crest height of 25.6 m, occurred on January 1, 1995, at the Draupner oil platform in the North Sea, the scientific community recognized that freak (or rogue) waves could exist in an unexpected form on the sea surface. The systematic study of freak waves began with the observation of the New Year wave. Freak waves are a special kind of surface wave with a relatively large height and short lifetime and are defined as having a maximum wave height that exceeds twice the significant wave height. Freak waves can greatly endanger ships and platforms at sea. After the New Year wave, 1 which had a trough-to-crest height of 25.6 m, occurred on January 1, 1995, at the Draupner oil platform in the North Sea, the scientific community recognized that freak (or rogue) waves could exist in an unexpected form on the sea surface.. The systematic study of freak waves began with the observation of the New Year wave.. Studying the physical mechanisms of freak wave generation is of great theoretical and practical significance. Modulational instability (MI) is considered to be one of the most likely mechanisms of freak wave generation in finite-depth and deep water. As an analytical solution of NLSE, the Peregrine Breather (PB) solution is an ideal model used to study freak waves because the surface elevation of the PB solution is amplified by a factor of 3 in both space and time. This paper focuses on the influence of wave–current interactions and wind–wave interactions on freak wave generation

Wave–current interactions
Wind–wave interactions
GOVERNING EQUATIONS
DERIVATION OF THE NLSE
MODULATIONAL INSTABILITY ANALYSIS
APPLICATION TO FREAK WAVES
CONCLUSION AND DISCUSSION
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