Abstract
A comprehensive analysis of fabric “hand” or “feel” can be obtained by a full evaluation using the “Kawabata” or “Fast” systems. However, for quick, cheap ranking of only the main factors of hand, the ring and slot methods can be used. In a ring test the fabric is pulled through a ring and the maximum force is taken as a measure of the fabric hand. In the slot test, the fabric is pushed through a slot and the complete force deflection curve is measured. An analysis of the mechanics of this test is given in this paper and shows that (because of the simpler test configuration) the initial slope gives a measure of the fabric flexural rigidity or stiffness while the ratio of the maximum load to the initial slope gives a measure of the fabric friction or smoothness. Thus in a single test we can measure “hand”, “stiffness” and “smoothness” directly. By parallel measurements of the fabric shear and compression, we can assess the fabric “drape” and “softness”.
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