Abstract
Microscopic prokaryotic and eukaryotic algae (microalgae), which can be effectively grown in mass cultures, are gaining increasing interest in cosmetics. Up to now, the main attention was on aquatic algae, while species from aeroterrestrial and extreme environments remained underestimated. In these habitats, algae accumulate high amounts of some chemical substances or develop specific compounds, which cause them to thrive in inimical conditions. Among such biologically active molecules is a large family of lipids, which are significant constituents in living organisms and valuable ingredients in cosmetic formulations. Therefore, natural sources of lipids are increasingly in demand in the modern cosmetic industry and its innovative technologies. Among novelties in skin care products is the use of lipid nanoparticles as carriers of dermatologically active ingredients, which enhance their penetration and release in the skin strata. This review is an attempt to comprehensively cover the available literature on the high-value lipids from microalgae, which inhabit aeroterrestrial and extreme habitats (AEM). Data on different compounds of 87 species, subspecies and varieties from 53 genera (represented by more than 141 strains) from five phyla are provided and, despite some gaps in the current knowledge, demonstrate the promising potential of AEM as sources of valuable lipids for novel skin care products.
Highlights
The increasing use of microalgae in the cosmetic industry as extraordinary rich source of novel high-value functional products, obtained in eco-friendly and cost-effective processes, is widely recognized [1,2]
fatty acyls (FA) are subdivided into classes, which include fatty acids (FtAs), fatty acid esters (FAEs), fatty alcohols, fatty amides, monoradylglycerols, diradylglycerols, triaradylglycerols, etc. [33]
FtAs comprise the major component of lipids, which can account from 20% to 50% of the dry biomass, and, other values (1–70%) have been reported [22,38]
Summary
The increasing use of microalgae in the cosmetic industry as extraordinary rich source of novel high-value functional products, obtained in eco-friendly and cost-effective processes, is widely recognized [1,2]. Many bio-based microalgal products are often “multipurposed” and are applied in dermal cosmetics as sunscreens, skin sensitizers and colorants, as well as agents for moisturizing, water-binding, texturizing, thickening, tanning, whitening, etc. With the flourishing development of nanotechnology, which leads to a fast product innovation [12,13], the potential of lipid nanoparticles (LNP), which seem to be both effective and economic, has been recognized as promising [14]. In dermal cosmetics, about a decade ago, it was already demonstrated that nano-sized sunscreen products have better performance than micron-sized materials [15]
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