A wave knowledge description of a surf break in Southern Brazil

Abstract

Surf breaks are complex natural environments that provide ecosystem services to coastal communities and suffer from both natural and anthropogenic impacts. Surfers have specific knowledge about these environments, due to their direct relationship with the ecosystem. Through a social-ecological approach such knowledge (wave knowledge) becomes a valuable source of information and is increasingly being incorporated into coastal management processes. From an ethno-oceanographic perspective, this article investigates the wave knowledge of surfers in Pontal do Sul surf break, state of Paraná, southern Brazil. This surf break is located at an estuary mouth, being subject to natural and anthropic changes, especially due to nearby port activities. A detailed set of knowledge about the oceanographic dynamics that act on this surf break was identified, from descriptions of waves, wind, and tidal conditions, to complex local morphodynamics. For surfers, the presence of port activities is one of the factors that modified the sediment dynamics in the region and in the surf break. Such information can contribute to the understanding of local dynamics and the predictability of future changes, offering effectiveness and legitimacy to conservation of these environments.