Abstract
The dearth of research in lead rock climbing means that much remains to be learnt about the external and internal demands of this sport and about the suitability of current training protocols and techniques. The aim of this study was to perform a time motion analysis of movements made by elite lead climbers and to compare results between men and women. Video recordings of the men’s and women’s lead finals in the 2012 Sport Climbing World Championships were analyzed. Sixteen ascents (8 by men and 8 by women) were coded using the purpose-designed Sport Climbing Observational Tool (SCOT), with recording of climbing speed and frequency and duration of use of handholds, successful and failed quickdraw clipping actions, chalk use, and rest gestures. The mean ± SD time needed to complete the climbing route was 220 ± 81.7 s for men and 355.9 ± 92.8 s for women. Significant differences were also found for the frequency and duration of holds, chalk use, and rest gestures, which were all greater in women. The findings of this study demonstrate how results from time motion analysis of competitive rock climbing, combined with evaluation of responses during intermittent isometric exercise, could be used to design targeted training exercises and tests for lead climbers.
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