Abstract
Based on abundant archeological evidences, this paper systematically discusses the weave and motif of twill damask of the Song and Liao dynasties. Categorized according to the weave, twill damask of the Song and Liao dynasties can be described as: twill in same direction, twill in different direction, twill with weft floats and brocaded twill; and the motifs adopted by twill damask of the Song and Liao dynasties mainly contain geometrical motif, floral motif, fauna motif (including birds and animals) and figural motif (including boys at play and Taoists).
Highlights
Based on abundant archeological evidences, this paper systematically discusses the weave and motif of twill damask of the Song and Liao dynasties
They were still favored in the Song and Liao dynasties, mostly in a structure of 1/5 twill and 2/1 twill for pattern or ground, such as the twill damask with lions enclosed in entwined flowers and the twill damask with flowers, fruits and boys both unearthed from Hejiazao in Hengyang, Hunan province; the twill damask with roundel enclosing confronted peacocks, the twill damask with big medallions, the twill damask with clouds and the twill damask with a Taoist figures, clouds and cranes all unearthed from Yelüyuzhi′s tomb (Zhao, 2004)
The weave of the twill damask discussed above suggests that twill damask of the Song and Liao dynasties was developed from twill damask of the Tang dynasty, but it was more abundant in category
Summary
Twill damask is a monochrome woven silk, with pattern and ground in different weave structures (Zhao Feng, 2005). In the Song dynasty, twill damask was produced on a large scale in workshops run by the government such as Lingjinyuan or Wensiyuan. Of different kinds, was widely used for official robes, imperial edicts, monk's or nun's certificates and calligraphy or painting mounting. Twill damask in the Song and Liao dynasties is similar to that in the Tang dynasty in weave but more abundant in category. Twill damask in the Song and Liao dynasties mainly includes the following categories: twill in same direction, twill in different direction, twill with weft floats and brocaded twill
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