A Study on the Revival of Jamdani Weaving Technique and Kalamkari Drawing—Dyeing Processes of Traditional Kodali Karuppur Sarees

Abstract

This paper studies the revival of the traditional jamdani weaving technique and ‘Kalamkari’ drawing—dyeing processes combined in producing Kodali Karuppur sarees, which originated from the village Kodali Karuppur in Tamil Nadu, India. The saree was first woven in the figured jamdani technique and then decorated by the Kalamkari natural color drawing—dyeing process. This results in producing the twinkle subdued gold spots over the white background. These spots are surrounded by decorated painted patterns over the colored background. In this study, the existence of Kodali Karuppur village, the commencement of saree weaving from the sixteenth century, and the glory of weaving and dyeing artisans are collected. The travel of these techniques from North India to South India is also mapped. Various places where the Kodali Karuppur sarees are presently exhibited have been recorded. This paper analyzes the plain extra weft figured fabric structuring involved in the traditional jamdani weaving technique. The expertise of the weaver artisans in making the figured interlacement is explained. The 28 systematic steps involved in the drawing—dyeing process of the Kalamkari are listed. Different recipes followed in the Kalamkari process, its age-old measuring units used, and their equivalent measuring units in the present system are calculated and recorded. The revival of Kodali Karuppur sarees using the jacquard weaving of jamdani and the printing—dyeing processes of Kalamkari is suggested. The importance of imparting training to the young generation in the jamdani technique and Kalamkari process to enlighten on the glory of traditional Kodali Karuppur sarees is put forth.