A Study of Mourning Ribbon (Sang-jang) from the Opening of ports through the Korean Empire Period

Abstract

This study consists of a discussion of the early forms of mourning ribbons (Sangjang) that are worn as the current costume for funeral rites in Korea by investigating the system of mourning ribbons that were introduced after the opening of ports and used until 1910. Mourning ribbons were introduced in military and police costumes for the first time when a state funeral was held after the murder of Empress Myeongseong in October1895. This was the first case in which Western-style funeral clothes were needed, as military and police costumes first changed to Western-style costumes in April 1895. Mourning ribbons during the Deahan Empire period were established three times: protocols for officer funerals were established in 1895, rules for army costume were implemented in 1897, and the use of mourning ribbons was added to the dress code for civil servants in 1908. The early form of mourning ribbons was a rectangular shape made of black cloth. These ribbons were tied or hung on hats, left forearms, and swords. Atfirst, the mourning ribbons` material came from cedar trees. Silk fabric was also used in some cirmum-stances in 1897, and the exclusive use of silk fabric first took place in 1908.