Abstract
Because of shoaling, refraction, friction, and other effects, a surface-wave propagating on a gently sloping bottom of slope α will eventually break. In this paper, the analytical solution for velocity potential function is derived to perturbation's eα^2 order for the gentle sloping bottom and wave steepness in the Eulerian system. Then, the wave profile and the breaking wave characteristics are found by transforming the flow field into a Lagrangian system. By using the kinematic stability parameter, new theoretical breaking wave characteristics are derived. Thus, the linear theories of other scholars are extended to breaking waves. Furthermore, the relation between the breaker height, breaker depth and bottom slope is discussed and verified with the experimental study or empirical formula that other scholars show reasonable agreement. It demonstrates that there has been an approach of the follow-up study proposed for the depiction of breaking wave characteristics.
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