A Set of Accurate Dispersive Nonlinear Wave Equations

Abstract

In this study, a set of accurate dispersive nonlinear wave equations is established, using the wave velocity and free surface elevation as variables. These equations improve upon previous equations in which the velocity potential is used as a variable by considering the rotational wave motion and by adding a second-order bottom slope term that applies to general situations, allowing the equations to consider the influence of rapidly changing, horizontal, two-dimensional bottom topographies. The problem of the inaccuracy of the integral calculations used in previous equations in nearshore areas is solved by approximating the integral calculations into differential calculations, and a set of coupled wave equations is established by keeping the free surface elevation and the horizontal velocity constant, thus allowing the calculation of nearshore wave-generated currents. The benefits of the current model are confirmed through comparisons with corresponding laboratory experimental findings and are illustrated through a comparison with the numerical outcomes of other pertinent models.