Abstract
Modeling is carried out to obtain a relationship that enables the prediction of the spacing of beach cusps using wave and sediment parameters. The modeling is based on the concepts that: (1) the path of wave uprush flow diverging at a cusp horn has a close connection with the cusp spacing, and (2) the flow path is affected by the grain size of beach sediment. The following equation is derived: λ = A ϕ T g H , in which λ is the cusp spacing, H is the nearshore wave height, T is the wave period, ϕ is a dimensionless quantity representing the effect of sediment grain size: ϕ=exp(−0.23 D 0.55), where D is the grain size in mm-units, g is the gravitational acceleration, and A=1.35. The value of A is determined using a large amount of existing field data. Applicability of the predictive equation is examined by using the data from an embayed beach in New South Wales, Australia. The result indicates that this equation is capable of reasonably explaining a general trend of the alongshore variation in cusp spacings.
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