Abstract
Wave observations taken at two shallow water sites off the coast of south-west Wales, U.K. are examined. The buoys are located in a region of strong semi-diurnal tides and the observations show significant variation, at semi-diurnal frequencies, in period, amplitude and direction. The interaction between tides and waves is studied using linear theory of wave refraction by slowly varying currents and depths. It is shown that quasi-steady analytical models fail to reproduce the tidally-induced variations in wave parameters. A linear ray-tracing model, including the effects of both spatial and temporal variations in the tidal currents and elevations, improves the simulation of the observed modification of the waves. Short period waves respond to variations in current refraction over a tidal cycle; long period waves are more influenced by variations in water depth over a tidal cycle.
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