Abstract

Numerical models of short waves in shallow water, which are of particular interest for the calculation of the wave climate in harbours and coastal areas, have been presented by Abbott et al. (1978) and by Hauguel (1980). These models are based on the solution of the Boussinesq or Serre type equations. A recent discussion of the range of application for the equations has been presented by McCowan (1982). Nevertheless, there is some uncertainty as to which terms in the differential equations are of importance, and how they are to be approximated. Therefore, no final judgement can presently be made on the accuracy and credibility of the solutions. Research on such models is still in progress and is of high theoretical and practical interest. Some of the aspects of current research relate to the handling of nonlinear terms, the non-reflecting boundary conditions and the transfer capability of the models for spectral input. This paper will reflect on these points.

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