Abstract

A practical numerical model was developed to simulate cross-shore profile evolution at two coastal sites in Iran. The model consists of three sub-models for calculating wave and current, sediment transport, and bed level changes. Validation and calibration of the model was carried out using the measured field data on the north and south coasts of Iran, where historic measurements of cross-shore beach profiles and wave conditions have been recorded. The model is formulated for calculating cross-shore sediment transports in and outside the surf zone by the product of time-averaged suspended sediment concentration under three different mechanisms and undertow velocity. The comparisons between the model results and field data show reasonable agreement for both coastal sites and will be capable of applying it to other coastal sites with modifications to the free parameters.

Highlights

  • The knowledge on nearshore morphological processes such as prediction of sediment transport rates and beach profile evolution is still limited in spite of past research studies carried out over the last few decades

  • The process-based models based on continuity and momentum equations combined with models of sediment transport and bed level changes are an extremely valuable tool for evaluating bottom changes in a beach profile

  • Free parameters in reference concentration formulae have shown that they had an effective influence on the offshore sand bar formation

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Summary

INTRODUCTION

The knowledge on nearshore morphological processes such as prediction of sediment transport rates and beach profile evolution is still limited in spite of past research studies carried out over the last few decades. Simplified models of beach profile changes provide coastal engineers helpful guidance and the model developers still apply best-fit technique with measured field and laboratory data in order to calibrate free parameters and improve their predictive models. A process-based cross-shore beach profile evolution model consisting of three sub-models is applied to validate the model with field data at Nowshahr and Zarabad beaches in Iran. The cross-shore beach profile evolution model is presented that calculates wave energy decay, surface roller and bottom friction, wave breaking heights, radiation stresses, wave set-up and set-down, velocity profiles, suspended sediment concentration profiles, avalanching mechanism and bed level changes. The data set consists of the measured cross-shore profiles and wave conditions for the storm events of 30th October 2013 to 18th January 2014

Zarabad coastal site
Sediment suspension over sheet flow
Sediment suspension under breaking waves
RESULTS AND DISCUSSION
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