Abstract

The sensory properties of cosmetic products can influence consumers’ choice. The accurate correlation of sensory properties, such as skin hydration, with the material properties of the formulation could be desirable. In this study, we aimed to demonstrate a new method for the in vitro measurement of the refractive indices (RIs) of turbid creams. The critical wavelength of each cream was obtained through direct measurement using a sun protection factor (SPF) meter; the wavelength value was then applied in the Sellmeier equation to determine the RI. The results obtained from the in vitro skin hydration measurement for each cream correlated with their RI values. This suggests that RI measurements could be a useful predictive tool for the ranking of creams in terms of their skin hydration effects.

Highlights

  • Sensory analysis plays a crucial role in the field of cosmetic science

  • We demonstrated how sensory attributes of semisolids, such as pourability, firmness, elasticity, spreadability and stickiness, can be accurately correlated to the rheological measurements of the formulation [7]

  • The objectives of the present study were as following: (i) to develop a method for the direct and accurate measurement of the refractive indices (RIs) of turbid formulations; and (ii) to investigate if there is a correlation between the RIs of creams and their skin hydration effects

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Summary

Introduction

Sensory analysis plays a crucial role in the field of cosmetic science It is used for claim substantiation via subjective users’ perception providing an understanding on how sensory attributes influence consumer’s choice and, in turn, the market success of the product [1]. The Organization of Standardization (ISO) allows the properties of a cosmetic product to be described using both qualitative and quantitative methods [2]. This is performed by the selection of a plain descriptive lexicon and a team of well-trained judges to qualify and quantify the test products on the basis of their individual sensory perception via scoring each attribute on a given scale. There is a need for the development of instrumental techniques that can reliably correlate to and predict sensory properties [7]

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