A Model of Strongly Forced Wind Waves

Abstract

Abstract A model of surface waves generated on deep water by strong winds is proposed. A two-layer approximation is adopted, in which a shallow turbulent layer overlies the lower, infinitely deep layer. The dynamics of the upper layer, which is directly exposed to the wind, are nonlinear and coupled to the linear dynamics in the deep fluid. The authors demonstrate that in such a system there exist steady wave solutions characterized by confined regions of wave breaking alternating with relatively long intervals where the wave profiles change monotonically. In the former regions the flow is decelerated; in the latter it is accelerated. The regions of breaking are akin to hydraulic jumps of finite width necessary to join the smooth “interior” flows and have periodic waves. In contrast to classical hydraulic jumps, the strongly forced waves lose both energy and momentum across the jumps. The flow in the upper layer is driven by the balance between the wind stress at the surface, the turbulent drag applied at the layer interface, and the wave drag induced at the layer interface by quasi-steady breaking waves. Propagating in the downwind direction, the strongly forced waves significantly modify the flow in both layers, lead to enhanced turbulence, and reduce the speed of the near-surface flow. According to this model, a large fraction of the work done by the surface wind stress on the ocean in high winds may go directly into wave breaking and surface turbulence.