7~9세기 동아시아 직물에 표현된 함조문(銜鳥紋) 연구

Abstract

This study is concerned with Hamjomun(銜鳥紋) textiles that were in vogue in international trade in the 7th-9th centuries. At that time, East-West trade was actively carried out through land and sea routes, with textiles at the center of these exchanges. One of the most popular textile patterns of the time was Hamjomun. On a Hamjomun textile pattern, a bird is holding something in its beak, and it is assumed that it was in vogue in Sassanian Persia before being handed down to East Asia. Thus, this study investigates and reveals the historicity of Hamjomun as a textile pattern. This study has significance in that it analyzes the Hamjomun textiles in terms of their expression. This study investigates Chinese and Japanese ancient literature and relics, focusing on Korea. Since it would be difficult to find relics of textiles from the 7th-9th centuries in Korea, this study examines East Asian Hamjomun based on the relics of textiles now held in China and Japan, which is a limitation. This study also examines the Hamjomun aspects expressed with the techniques, such as weaving(織造), embroidery(刺繡), dyeing(染色), and felting and organizes its types and characteristics. This study focuses on the materials used and pattern compositions to analyze the species of the birds represented, Hamjo objects, edge patterns, and the posture and composition of Hamjo. The influence of the Sassanian Persian style changed the standard design composition of the East Asian style pictorially or lively. On the West textile, birds were mostly displayed holding pearl beads(連珠) in their beaks, while on East Asian textiles, they were displayed characteristically as holding floral twigs(草花) or transformed ribbons(綬帶) in their beaks.