330 A novel cosmetic anti-hair loss approach: An extract of Leontopodium alpinum inhibits catagen development

Abstract

Hair loss disorders, such as telogen effluvium or androgenetic alopecia, as well as reduction of hair volume during aging result mainly from the shortening of the phase during which the hair follicles (HFs) are producing the hair shaft (anagen). Therefore, novel anti hair loss strategies should aim at efficiently inhibiting the development of the regression phase (catagen). Here, we investigated the potential of a novel cosmetically applicable extract deriving from Leontopodium alpinum (Edelweiss), first ex vivo, in human microdissected anagen VI scalp hair follicles (HFs) from three individuals (two females, one male). After 5 days of treatment with the 0.001% edelweiss extract, significantly more HFs remained in anagen and showed increased hair matrix keratinocyte proliferation. Given that higher activity of alkaline phosphatase, and up-regulated expression of versican, and FGF7 was observed in the dermal papilla of female treated HFs, the anagen prolonging effect of the extract may be possibly mediated by stimulation of dermal papilla fibroblasts inductivity. To independently confirm these results, a 5 months double-blind, placebo controlled clinical study on Caucasian volunteers (both male and female, age 18-65, 30 volunteers per group) was conducted. Treatment with the edelweiss extract lead to a significant increase in hair density (Trichoscan) over time, as well as anagen to catagen/telogen ratio (Trichogram) compared to placebo. Therefore, our results provide evidence for a beneficial effect of the Leontopodium alpinum extract as an adjuvant anti-hair loss agent.