32685 Inhibitory effects of a nature-based skin brightening complex on melanin production utilizing an in vitro skin tissue model

Abstract

Background: Facial skin pigmentary abnormalities such as uneven skin tone and age spots are considered unaesthetic and a common complaint in women of all skin types. Although effective, traditional depigmenting agents, such as hydroquinone, corticosteroids, and kojic acid, are associated with long-term exposure safety concerns. There is a rising demand to correct irregular skin pigmentation through topical skin care with consumers increasingly interested in natural alternatives. A nature-based skin brightening complex containing Glycyrrhiza glabra, Curcuma longa, and Terminalia chebula was developed for the treatment of hyperpigmentation. Objective: To investigate the skin depigmenting effects of a nature-based complex containing G glabra, C longa, and T chebula. Methods: MelanoDerm tissues (n = 3 each) were treated topically with individual test materials, formulation with and without combined test materials, a positive control (kojic acid), and vehicle and untreated controls for 14 days. Tissues were analyzed for surface reflectance (L*D65) as a measure of skin pigmentation and 10X representative images were obtained to evaluate melanocyte morphology at Day 0, 5, 9 and 14. Melanin content was quantified on Day 14 using the Solvable Melanin Assay. Results: A significant increase in L* was observed in tissues treated with the positive control (on all days) and test materials (on days 9 and 14). Change was not significant with placebo treatment. Tissues treated with the positive control and test materials showed fewer pigmented melanocytes and significantly lower melanin content than the untreated and placebo tissues. Conclusion: The skin depigmenting potential of the nature-based complex has been confirmed in vitro.