Abstract

Introduction: Dry dandruff (DD) is in the form of small, whitish flakes, not adherent to the scalp. Shampoo was developed for DD and formulated according to the requirements of 'conscious care' with 85% natural ingredients. Objective: Clinical studies were designed to assess its tolerance, efficacy and sensoriality with clinical, auto-assessment scoring, instrumental, pharmaco clinical methods and an in-use test. Material and methods: The in vivo studies were carried out on a total panel of 121 subjects corresponding to the target of the product. First, in use tolerance under dermatological control was investigated for 3 weeks (W). Efficacy and persistence were evaluated for 8 W to follow anti-dandruff-efficacy, scalp itching and discomfort and to measure hydration (HI), Trans Epidermal Water loss (TEWL) and pH of the scalp. Scalp microflora was analysed by NGS sequencing from swabs sampled after 2 and 4 W. The respect of skin barrier was evaluated on skin explants. Consumer use test of 3W was carried out to assess cosmetic acceptability and efficacy. Results: The results showed a very good tolerance and a decrease of dandruff, itching and discomfort scores. HI increased at W2. PH and TEWL did not change significantly. Regarding scalp microbiome, an increase of mycobiota diversity and significant change from W2 of bacteria population were observed. The respect for the integrity of the skin barrier was also shown. Cosmetic qualities and efficacy were appreciated. Conclusion: The new anti-dandruff shampoo displays a very good tolerance, anti-dandruff and soothing effects that are persistent while respecting skin barrier and a very good acceptability and efficay. The scalp microbiota is rebalanced, reflecting a strong relation between skin disorders and flora. All this evidence provides the consumer with a quality product that is well tolerated, effective and in line with expectations of naturality.

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