27886 Optimized delivery of a novel acetyl dipeptide provides clinical and consumer perceivable benefits to antiaging attributes of the lower face, including firming and jawline contour

Abstract

A novel acetyl dipeptide has previously demonstrated increased expression of 5 aging skin biomarkers in vitro, including elastin, decorin, fibronectin, procollagen, and hyaluronic acid. To further evaluate acetyl dipeptide benefits, in vitro skin penetration was assessed for optimal delivery to skin and in vivo punch biopsies of acetyl dipeptide treated arms were collected to evaluate clinical benefits in correlation to skin biomarkers. Additionally, an antiaging clinical study of women (40-65 years) with mild to moderate jawline sagging evaluated a face cream containing acetyl dipeptide in combination with other beneficial ingredients. Clinical grading, digital photography, self-assessment and tolerability were captured. Glycolic acid enhanced skin absorption of acetyl dipeptide with optimal levels at 1% and 4% (P ˂ .05). Enhanced absorption was not observed with other acids or by adjusting the pH. Images of punch biopsies showed increased staining for skin biomarkers compared with untreated (16 weeks; twice daily use). The 16-week antiaging study (n = 38) showed significant improvement in 15 clinically graded parameters, including jawline sagging (9%), global facial lift (10%) and appearance of nasolabial folds (11%) at week 16 (week 16, P ˂ .01). Seven clinical parameters showed significant improvement as early as 2 weeks (P ˂ .01). Self-assessment and digital photography provided further support of efficacy. Acetyl dipeptide was optimized for delivery to skin and has in vivo benefits correlated to novel biomarkers for antiaging. Emerging antiaging attributes of the lower face, such as jawline sagging and global lift, particularly important to consumers with increased digital presence, can be effectively improved by topical skincare.